Some of the least visited but but most spectacular dive sites in the world can be found off the coast of Sudan. It is because of this we had made it our mission to cover the hundreds of kilo-metres to the coast for just one day of diving. This is diving at its finest and offers many different intriguing sites from cargo wrecks to coral gardens, to shark hotbeds and unbeatable shoals of fish and for a bit of scuba history, Cousteau’s Conshelf.
Red Sea Secrets Diving Centre is the only Padi certified centre in Port Sudan that offers day trips. It’s owner Mustafa found his love for diving whilst studying in Malaysia and came back to Sudan with the single goal of establishing dive tourism. Mustafa’s passion for Sudanese diving is evident, making him the perfect guide for these outstanding waters. Diving can be dangerous however Red Sea Secrets is a professional outfit where safety is paramount and we knew we were in good hands.
Our day started with bureaucracy as choppy as the waters that awaited us. Diving permits need to be attained on a day-by-day basis, which Mustafa arranges however if the official is otherwise engaged you will end up waiting, like us. This frustration is something that Mustafa is championing to change in order to improve dive tourism.
Once we finally had the permits we sailed out over the waves, bouncing with spine shuddering jolts on the turbulent sea as our clothes were quickly soaked through. Mustafa’s boat could take the pounding and as we neared Sanganeb, an hour away from the coast, the waters calmed as the lighthouse came into view. As well as snorkelling and diving it is also possible to ascend the lighthouse to view the bright blue of the lagoon sitting in the deeper blue of the surrounding ocean.
As one of us is new to diving the turquoise lagoon around Sanganeb, full of coral gardens, was a perfect location for a beginner dive in what can otherwise be a more advanced area. The sheer drop of the surrounding coral wall allows for more experienced divers to go deeper and explore the pristine wonders further below the surface. With crystal clear waters and an abundance of colour beneath even snorkelling here is a very special experience.
As we dropped into the water the gloomy day made it feel as if we were swapping a monochrome world for one of exquisite colour. The scale and variety of aquatic life is incomparable to any we had seen before. The steep wall of reef descends into the abyss like the body of a skyscraper. A kaleidoscope of coral supports the busy life of the many different fish that weave in-between the spires and alleyways of this natural infrastructure. Suspended 40 m deep the vibrant coral city captures your attention on one-side whilst on the other the opaque blueness of the ocean contrasts with it’s emptiness. This nothingness can prove to be an illusion when out of nowhere you glimpse a shark gliding towards the reef.
We had read about how special it was to dive in Sudan however witnessing the extent of the biodiversity as well as the abundance of each species was an unforgettable privilege. To discover such unspoiled excellence was made even more incredible as we were the only divers on site. Some experiences are worth travelling miles out of your way for and this is one of them.
