The Valley of the Kings is what makes the West Bank of Luxor famous however there is so much more to see here. It is easy to find an affordable taxi or book yourself on a group tour however if you can, we would recommend doing it by bike. Not only is this the most affordable way to take in the sights but also allows you the freedom to soak up daily life and the magnificent history at your own pace. We visited in March when the climate is cooler and meant cycling is an enjoyable experience.
As we were staying on the East Bank we took the local ferry over the Nile. Private boats are available but we enjoyed the journey with school children and commuters. Even though we knew the bike shop we were heading for (Mohammed Setohe Bike Rental) we still managed to pick up a charming ‘family member’ who was looking for a commission. The rental for two bikes for a whole day was LE60, Mohammed was very honest and you don’t need to pay more.
With plastic flower pedals, matching baskets and no gears they may not be a serious cyclists dream but we loved them the moment we saw them. Cruising along, surrounded by fields made green by the Nile and waving date palms we could not imagine any better way to explore the West Bank. Huge tourist buses would zoom past however with motorbikes and donkey-carts making up most of the local traffic, the pace of the roads felt safe. Cycling also had the added advantage of allowing us to out-pace any hassle with a friendly wave and a ding of the bell.
A few kilometres on we came to the Colossi of Memnon, two huge faceless figures who once stood guard to a now demolished temple. A tourist attraction since the time of the Graeco-Romans they are a stoic welcome to the wonders that are to come.
Continuing past the Colossi you reach the ticket office where you must buy individual tickets to the sites you want to visit. This does not include the Valley of the Kings which you buy on arrival. With so much to visit it is impossible to do all in one day, so you will need to research your programme beforehand. You may also need to be flexible as some sites may be closed for conservation. We planned our route around a tip that we had been given that it is better to visit Valley of the Kings later in the day to miss the morning hoards of tourist buses.
Medinat Habu
The Temple of Medinat Habu built by Ramses III but added to by many others throughout the ages, up until 9 Century AD, was an awesome place to start. Dominating a small rural village the structure is imposing with slightly sloping walls that nod to the shape of the base of a pyramid. The outer walls are covered in hieroglyphs and giant depictions of Ancient Egyptian mythology. A vast rectangular entrance guides you into the complex and as one of the less busy sites you have much more space to indulge your interest. Like Karnak this site is spectacular for the quality and quantity of its hieroglyphs, as well as boasting a fantastic display of original colour.
Tombs of the Nobles
Do not miss this site, although it sounds like a lesser version of Valley of the Kings it is fascinating in its narration of slightly more ordinary lives. Small openings are set into a rocky hillside and although unassuming they conceal an incredible display of colour and history. We visited the tombs of Sennofer and Rekhmire, with the former our favourite due to the incredibly vibrant paintings that depict his life and family. The ceiling is covered in a mural of grape-vines and it is almost unbelievable that these paintings are thousands of years old. Turbaned locals guard the tombs and after getting chatting to one we were invited to share tea and lunch in his hillside hut overlooking the green-fields beyond.
Carter’s House
Although not ancient, this small white domed house, on the outskirts of the Valley of the Kings is an important place in the history of Egyptology. It is here that Howard Carter lived over the many years he searched for and then excavated the tomb of Tutenkhamun. Probably the most famous archaeological story of all time it was interesting to get a feel for the man behind the tale. There is also a replica of the tomb itself which saves you visiting the real one, which is notably less impressive and more damaged than others.
Valley of the Kings
Our oversized children’s bikes made the final ascent to the Valley of the kings somewhat difficult, we finally understood why cyclists complain about headwind!
There are numerous tombs you can visit, with the standard ticket letting you into three (you can buy additional tickets if you want to see more). You will also need a photography permit if you want to take pictures, which as we discovered is very well enforced!
The ugly quarry like site was not what we had imagined and belied the beauty and wonder of the chambers beneath. The tombs we chose were Ramses III, Ramses IV and Tawosret/Sethnakht. Each have something wonderful to draw you in, be it the depth and expanse of the many chambers that make you marvel at the engineering or the incredible storytelling and colours of the paintings and carvings. Like the Tombs of the Nobles it is astonishing that the brilliant colours have not diminished in the thousands of years since these tombs were first sealed.
Ancient Egyptian theology is incredibly complex, especially as the meaning and depiction of each god changed and developed with each dynasty. Whilst we felt we could identify some of them it never stopped being confusing.
As characterises much of Egypt, ancient history and modernity live side by side. This was exemplified when exploring one of the tombs to the blaring soundtrack of Candy Crush which one of the guards was playing on his phone. Whilst this detracted from the quiet awe of the tomb it was hilarious in its own right and illustrated that no matter your surroundings sometimes work is just plain boring!
Temple of Seti I
After leaving the Valley of the Kings and whilst heading back to the ferry we made a last stop at the dilapidated Temple of Seti I. In a state of reconstruction one of the most interesting points about this temple is its close location to a busy town. A guide took us around and did an exceptional job considering he could only say ‘yes’ and ‘good’ in English. The colonnade of palm trees and ancient fallen blocks that lead to the temple looked especially beautiful in the light of the setting sun.
