On arriving back in The Gambia we decided we had to take a trip in-land. Leaving the bizarre touristic environment of the coast we went in search of some pre- history in the form of megalith circles. The journey to Lamin Koto took us through vast planes dotted with mud-hut villages. Jammeh’s lack of commitment to development was again illustrated by the absence of fresh running water and electricity at the lodge where we stayed and the surrounding villages. We brushed our teeth with river water by candle light excited about the sights of tomorrow.
We woke to the tranquillity of The Gambia river on our doorstep and knew we had to stay another day. Before visiting Wassu (the largest megalith site) Mohammed, a guy from the hostel insisted we go and visit the local circle with his friend as a guide. We were lead up the road and then into what looked like an unassuming bush. Here in the dust from the road stood an ancient stone circle. The history we were given seemed dubious and taken over by modern custom (people come here to place pebbles on top of the megaliths in exchange for wishes). It was a rather bizarre tour and left us looking forward to discovering more the next day.
Our guide, Lamin, then took us to Janjanburah/ George Town/ McCarthy Island an island that is most well- known for its colonial past in the middle of the river. It was interesting to walk around the main town however our tour guide’s account of its history again seemed questionable. This backwater Island was a hub for the slave trade before becoming an administrative colonial outpost. The colonial buildings, except the Methodist church, stand in various states of decay whilst life goes on around them, unpreserved and unloved yet still present. Janjanburah later became a refuge for escaped slaves protected by the British and even later one for the Mandinka people fleeing persecution from other tribes. Nowadays the covered market in the centre of this sleepy town is the only surviving element of commerce in what was once a busy centre for trade.
After this the day of tourism continued and we were once again led astray by hippos. Rather than taking a large expensive boat our guide promised us a cheaper trip to see the hippopotamuses and crocodiles. They produced a canoe so tiny that people laughed at us and one that an unexpected sneeze would capsize. Obviously there was never any intention from the guides (one of whom we soon realised was drunk) of finding the hippos and crocs but it was lovely (for the first hour) floating downriver. The river is hugged by lush vegetation that is the home of a vast variety of birds and some monkeys. The river which runs through the middle of the country is wonderfully unspoilt; the lack however of any traffic again exemplifies the deliberate under-development which keeps entire communities in poverty.
The trip downriver was an easy and peaceful two hours, the return trip, fighting against the current, with a by then hung-over captain, was a four hour different story. The starry reflections were a beautiful contrast to the journey under the blazing sun down river however we now hoped the crocs would not make an appearance. We arrived home by moonlight all exhausted after an unexpectedly epic expedition.
The next morning we made it to Wassu and despite criticism we thought it was an interesting UNESCO site. The stones stand in circles of ancient dignity offering an insight into the cultures that built them. They vary in shape and size and are recognised to be at least 1000 years old. They stand out in the flat landscape indicating their importance to the ancient civilisations, this is further supported by the graves that have been unearthed by archaeologists underneath the circles. Wassu is one site of many across Senegal and The Gambia. The stones are culturally and historically valuable as they indicate a developed and prosperous pre-historic civilization in West Africa.
Discovering some of The Gambia’s history as well as the upriver culture is something we would really recommend to anyone travelling here. It is a world away from the sex tourism and hassle of the coast and a place which we wish we had had more time to explore.
