We now realise that the novelty of the Senegalese sept-place is nothing compared to how the Beninoise travel. Although cramped, seven passengers plus a driver in a converted Peugeot estate car does not seem completely unreasonable, everyone has a tiny seat to call their own. Here the sept-places go by the name of neuf-place, same car model but as the name suggests with two more passengers stuffed inside, though really as many as the driver feels is possible.
Our first experience of inter-city travel saw us catch a normal five-seater hatchback bound for Parakou. Rather than waiting for other passengers the car set off immediately, this seemed too good to be true and we comfortably settled ourselves into our spacious surroundings. About half a kilometre down the road the car pulled up, it was too good to be true! The driver hollered for additional passengers and a few more people piled in, although there was less space we still had a seat each.
Over the next few kilometres the car pulled over in every village as people got in and out; the joys of a bush taxi! It took a good hour to go the distance that should have taken 20 minutes. By the time we were properly on our way with all the other passengers heading to Parakou there were an unbelievable 12 in the car!
We were firmly wedged into the corner of the back seat, each with a sleeping child on our laps. Although horribly uncomfortable and sweating in places we could not reach at least we were not the man who was sat on the gear stick in-between the driver and the two people sharing the front seat.
The journey proceeded haltingly as the car stopped at the many police check points, with the driver often having to pay bribes to get the heavy load through. The car also stopped for people to pee by the side of the road, as only one door worked this involved nearly everybody getting out each time. When the driver went to have his lunch (without informing anybody), we used the time to find a more private toilet. A little girl led us to a metre high cement and fabric construction, which a woman and child were using as a shower. Before we knew what was going on they had stepped out mid-wash to let us use the facilities, bizarre and embarrassing, next time we will just go by the side of the road!
As we continued on our journey the car also pulled up whenever somebody who wanted something delivering appeared to make it worth the drivers while. Needless to say, unfolding ourselves when we finally arrived in Parakou was a huge relief!
Ridiculously overloaded vehicles are a common sight here which is why we were surprised on our next journey to find the comfort of Confort Lines. A coach company akin to the Megabus with regular coaches, that actually departed at a specified hour and that only sold as many tickets as there were seats! This was an easy, cheap and relaxing journey although the goats in the luggage hold probably would not have agreed!
The most luxurious way we have travelled by far is in the air-conditioned 70’s chic automobile of the ‘King’ (!?) of Adjohoun. His chauffeur had kindly reversed to collect us from the road side as we waited for anybody to take us out of the village where we had been staying. Dressed in flowing white robes, adorned with colourful beaded necklaces and holding a horse hair baton (symbol of importance) he had a majestic air. The crown shaped tea cosy resting on top of his head (rather than on it like a hat) was worn with great seriousness but to us exemplified his jovial nature. The journey passed with friendly conversation and very little sweat! The king offered us his condolences on Thatcher’s death and happily reminisced about his studies in Liverpool. He sent us off with a regal wave as he instructed the driver to take us to our next gare, here the battle for a fair price and a comfortable seat began once again.
When not travelling long distance as cars are few and far between motorbikes are the main mode of transport. They are quick, cheap and exhilarating, we love them! In Benin the moto’s are as overloaded as the cars with whole families and businesses piled on and strapped down. It is not uncommon to see five passengers on one with women still managing to carry goods on their heads as they weave through the heavy traffic.
One downside to this way of travel is the aggressive haggling for a good price (which is often disputed again on arrival – always carry the correct change!), the perpetual argument for a reasonable fare whenever you want to go somewhere can be very tiring. Another is that the pot-holed roads, lack of helmet and overloading make it potentially very dangerous, which is why choosing a sober and competent driver is essential. It does help that motorbikes are prioritised on the roads here and for the most part are ridden with practised skill.
You never know when travelling in Benin if you will have a whole seat, a half seat or barely any seat at all making it rarely comfortable but never boring. One thing is for certain; there is nearly always room for one more!
