One of the unexpected delights of diving with Red Sea Secrets was the way it’s owner, Mustafa, opened his arms and friendship group to us. His towering stature and gruff demeanour belied the warmth and generosity of his heart, which if you spend any time with him soon becomes evident.
Mustafa’s love for his country meant he went out of his way to ensure we had the opportunity to share in this passion too. After arranging our dive and although busy on his own errands, he drove us to the local fish market so we did not miss out on the days catch. Fisherman stack their haul on cement slabs that act as stalls in the open air market right on the sea front, chopping and weighing to order. The set up is basic but functional and the ubiquitous stench wrinkles your nose like anywhere else. The variety available is vast however and a testament to the richness of the Sudanese sea.
A visit to this fish market is particularly special as there are a number of busy restaurants close by that will cook up your purchases on the spot. Mustafa showed us to his favourite one and after declining an invite to join us made sure that our half kilo of fresh, juicy and fat prawns would be cooked to perfection. We sat overlooking the water and enjoyed being part of the merry weekend atmosphere.
After a failed attempt to swim at the Coral Hotel, where the pool was algae green and circling crows made the atmosphere apocalyptic, we bumped into Mustafa again. His invitation to join a BBQ on the beach with his friends reminded us that Sudan is not about swimming at fancy hotels, it is all about the people.
Mustafa introduced us to a group of his best friends. Welcoming, friendly and interested, we instantly got chatting; swapping stories about our different cultures, finding common ground and new perspectives. With mutual fervour we discussed Brexit and the current political instability in Sudan, both contemplating the challenges that need to be overcome in our lifetimes. These lively open people are ambitious for Sudan and want to be a part of its change of fortune. Their fathers left Bashir’s dictatorship to find prosperity elsewhere, this generation has returned, well educated and with a dream that the future can be different. The location of the BBQ was an example of the dreams they have. Mustafa has a vision to transform this now mostly unused stretch of beach into a Sudanese riviera. We look forward to the day we can come back and enjoy it.
As the sun sank behind the waves Mustafa and his friends rustled up a delicious BBQ with practised ease. This was a simple affair with no unnecessary accoutrements, not even a BBQ itself! A large metal skillet, drilled with holes, balanced atop a low concrete wall which gave oxygen to the coals below. Kilos of sheep meat were grilled with onions, enjoyed straight from the fire and accompanied by shatu (chilli sauce). Sitting in the sand, drinking fizzy pop and putting the world to rights made it feel like we were already old friends.
On our last night in Port Sudan Mustafa and his friends took us out to try their favourite dessert, mehlabiya, a sugary creamy goo. Although scoring no points for presentation it was delicious! Like the dessert this group of people had shared their friendship with us giving us a insight into the youth of Sudan and the pride this generation has for its country. With their excellent English and unquenchable curiosity we had particularly clicked with Mubarak and Abu Bakar and were delighted when they invited us to meet up with them in Khartoum.
