Penjari National Park is in the very north of Benin and spills across the border into Burkina Faso. It has a reputation as being one of the best parks in West Africa, as one of the only places left that lions and elephants can still be spotted in the wild (poaching has sadly been detrimental to wildlife across the region).
As we had unknowingly arrived at the perfect time of year we knew that a trip to the park was an opportunity not to be missed but with such a tight budget it meant enlisting the services of a mad man as a guide! We had met Theophile (honestly his name) the day before when he had taken us to a local waterfall.
Climbing down the rock face gave us the chance to marvel at the glorious natural surroundings. A forest of green surrounded the pool which was clearly a popular Easter picnic spot. We splashed around with the locals in the temperate waters (Harry teaching a man how to swim) and received expert massages from the force of the cascades, an excellent way to cool off from the cloying heat. This made up for the Easter bunny losing his way in Africa!
At the break of dawn the next morning we set off on our Penjari safari adventure. We had the first indication of the extent of Theophile’s ridiculousness when after complaining he was tired he pulled the car over for his remedy…a shot of gin (pineapple flavoured ethanol)! After this he seemed more inclined to join in our continuous chanting of Penjari safrari, safari Penjari! As we entered the park it seemed impossible that we would see anything as we were tearing along at 100 km an hour! The abundance of wildlife springing out of the way was however a clear indication of the riches that the park had to offer!
As we got deeper into Penjari some semblance of sanity was restored and Theo slowed down and even stopped at times. He did have a good eye for spotting the animals and an hour in we had already seen gazelle, waterbuck, antelope, warthogs and buffalo who were all camouflaged in the bush. Our first official stop was at one of the few remaining watering holes, the lack of water at this time of year (end of the dry season) restricts the movements of the animals which is why it is such a good time to spot them. Here the animals share their drinking space making sure they do not wade too far into the crocodile infested water.
At first hard to spot, you soon realise just how many angry crocs are snapping away, though they seem to leave the elegant African herons alone. This watering hole is also home to a family of baboons who are hilarious in their mischief. Whilst we were at this viewing platform we saw one terrorising a man with some biscuits which to avoid attack he thoughtfully threw at his girlfriend! The baboon won the battle and sat happily munching under the shade of a tree. After viewing these splendid animals we drove to where we would be pitching our tent, in the grounds of a hotel we could not afford.
Before heading back into the bush Theophile kindly offered to cook us lunch on the stove he had brought, burnt rotten ingredients however do not make for a tasty meal and he only allowed us one bite of his fine cuisine before we were shouted at to get on the road again. This time with a mechanic to safeguard our return as the car was not feeling so great. After downing more gin at lunch time Theo also wasn’t feeling so good either and I/Harry took over the wheel! This time he insisted on the 40km speed limit, a park rule, forgetting the pace of his earlier driving.
We got our first glimpse of an elephant, cooling himself with the flap of his massive ears. After admiring his giant presence we headed off to another viewing platform; this time situated overlooking an idyllic lake full of hippopotamuses chilling in the afternoon sun. This was a highlight of the day especially when a family of elephants arrived. Watching them washing, munching and drinking on the shore whilst the hippo’s grunted to each other in the water was an unbelievable way to spend the afternoon. The only slight disruption was Theophile, who was passed out on the floor of the hut snoring almost as loudly as the hippos themselves!
After a spectacular afternoon we drove back to the watering hole we had visited in the morning in the hope of glimpsing a lions evening drink (after an argument with Theo who wanted to return to the hotel for his!). Best argument either of us has ever had, almost as soon as we arrived a terrified hush fell amongst the animals before a warning call signalled the approach of a huge old male lion. He stalked to the water to relieve the heat of the day whilst we all looked on with wonder. The baboons skittish as first soon returned to the waters edge and resumed playfully preening and picking each other’s behinds, safe in their ability to escape. Just as we were thinking it could not get any better the warning cry again resounded and three lionesses sauntered into view. Awesome in their fierceness, it was a privilege to see their softer side as they lapped at the water and greeted the male like an old friend. The setting of the sun was a beautiful backdrop to this Attenborough-esque scene, just another day in the African wild but one that for us will remain unforgettable.
Although one of the only places left in West Africa where it is possible to view such scenes the limited tourist industry in Benin meant that we never shared them with more than six other visitors. When driving around the park you do not tend to encounter other vehicles making you feel alone in the wild and enabling you to see the creatures as nature intended. It had been a truly breath-taking day and a high-light of the whole trip. After an uncomfortable night sleeping on one dirty blanket in the sweltering tent we left the park with farewells from a family of elephants and headed to what has to be one of the most beautiful places in the world.
Cascade Tanoungou was like stumbling on a portion of paradise, towering fern covered cliffs encircled a clear seemingly bottomless pool which the crystal water tumbled into. The rush of the waterfall and monkeys chattering in the surrounding jungle were the only sounds to be heard. Floating on your back gazing at the flora framed sky was the epitome of relaxation; it is hard to think of a better way to pass the day. Many hours slipped away before Theophile made an appearance, ranting from the shore as we lounged on the rocks next to the waterfall, he made it clear it was time to leave (by shouting and miming that he was leaving whether we came or not!). We gave Tanoungou it’s just goodbye imprinting the tropical wonderland in our minds forever.
It was the perfect end to a great adventure and the best spent mille (1000CFA-just over a pound) so far. Thanks Theophile for making it all happen in spite of your reckless driving, rule breaking (we found him stuffing yam with a baboon – the same one who had stolen the biscuits!), day time drinking and general insanity the spectacular glory of nature shone through it all! Penjari park is without a doubt worth a visit and in case anybody is on a budget as tight as ours or wants a lunatic for a guide here is Theo’s number 9132955. Penjari Safari! Safari Penjari!
