The pandemic disrupted everyone’s plans, especially when it came to travelling in distant lands. When we knew our intended trips to Kyrgyzstan/Uzbekistan and Namibia were off the cards we had to look closer to home for a dose of adventure.
Walking Hadrian’s Wall gave us the opportunity to stamp out the frustrations of the year by following in the footsteps of Roman legions surrounded by England’s verdant beauty. This is a journey across the country as well as through time. There are many ways to enjoy Hadrian’s Wall, from day trips, to sections of the National Trail, to walking coast to coast. Although you can cover its 84 miles in one trip, we decided to split traversing this historic route in two.
We went west to east, against the grain of most walkers on the wall, but with the unexpected bonus of the wind and rain against our backs and the path to ourselves for much of the route.
Making our plans for the first leg, without a map or the guidebook, was somewhat of a mistake. Our route meant we ended up covering an exhausting amount of ground however embraced this challenge and with a thermos full of tea and were still smiling at the end of each day, even if our feet weren’t!
Our second leg included the most popular part of the Wall, covering dramatic scenery and world-class museums. Having not learnt our lesson the first time, we still covered far too many miles but happy in our new rambling pursuit and grateful as ever for our trusty reviving thermos and the friendly local pubs!
Hadrian’s Wall unites those who have walked it both past and present, drawing us all into the diverse melting pot that seems to be Rome’s legacy. We had not expected our Seamless Tours 2020/21 trips to be so close to home but the joy we found in this adventure reinforced our belief in how much the world has to offer, both near and far!
Trip Spec (per person)
Part One
Bowness-on-Solway to Roman Army Museum
Train: London – Carlisle £85 return (with railcard)
Time: Thursday – Monday (3 days walking)
Budget: £420
Part Two
Roman Army Museum to South Shields
Train: London to Newcastle £78 return (with railcard)
Time: Thursday – Tuesday (4.5 days walking)
Budget: £500
Sleeping
Part One
Sian’s Rest Shepherd’s Hut: These cute and comfortable en-suite huts have everything you need for a night or a week. Bunkbeds, a kitchenette and your own wood-burner make this a cosy place to stay if a little overpriced. The Garrison Campsite, Bowness-on-Solway.
Cumbria Park Hotel: Good value 3* hotel in a great location near the national trail. With all the comforts you need after a hard days walking they will even give you a packed breakfast to go. Scotland Road, Carlisle.
The Grey Bull: Family run B’n’B centrally located and near the seven pubs this small town boasts. Clean and comfortable room and a tasty generous breakfast served by the chatty Brenda. Main street, Haltwhistle.
Part Two
The Bowes Hotel: Excellent value, clean and stylish rooms with a delicious breakfast included. The warm welcoming staff went out of their way to help us and the pub downstairs makes for a perfect spot for food and drinks after a long days walking. Bardon Mill.
The George Hotel: Pretty location and spacious room but pricey for a one night stop and not the friendliest staff. Pandemic policy meant we got the indoor pool to ourselves which was a perk for aching limbs. Chollerford.
The Keelman and Big Lamp Brewery: Dated rooms but spacious, clean and great value. Well placed along the trail, with friendly staff and a pub and restaurant onsite. Grange Road, Newburn
The Vermont Hotel: Comfortable and affordable grandeur in this 4* 1930s hotel. Located in the centre of Newcastle it is a perfect location for picking up the trail and enjoying the vibrant city. Castle Garth, Newcastle upon Tyne
Eating
Part One
The Royal Outpost: Unforgettable Malaysian and Thai restaurant in a beautiful historic building. Enjoy fantastic flavours, exotic cocktails and lovely service under the original Tudor beams. 22 Botchergate, Carlisle.
Walton Tea Shop: This community centred tea-room is Amrit to the trails walkers. Delicious savoury and sweet bites, tea by the pot and warm- friendly waitresses make this a place worth stopping at. Near the Church, Walton.
The Black Bull: A perfect pub. the oldest inn in town boasts low beams, a roaring fire, a chatty landlord and hearty food. What more could you ask for?! Market Square, Haltwhistle.
Zaki Indian Restaurant & Grill: Harmoniously spiced, mouth-watering dishes. this locally renowned restaurant is worth going out of your way for. Aesica Road, Haltwhistle
Part Two
Langley Castle Hotel: Fine dining experience in an epic castle setting. Good food for decent value but a slightly stagnant atmosphere. Staff friendly and didn’t seem to mind on our walking boots! Langley, Hexham.
Café at Vindolanda: Simple but tasty hot and cold plates with a selection of cakes and treats. The outside terrace looks over a stream and is a beautiful and relaxing spot to take a break. Vindolanda Museum, Hexham.
Barrasford Arms: Great spot that is worth the detour with delicious food and tasty, affordable wine. We would recommend the cheese soufflé and Romanian Pinot Noir. Friendly staff and relaxed dining experience. Barrasford, Hexam.
The Swan: Hearty, tasty pub classics with fantastic views over the countryside from their garden. This was a perfect and much needed stop before the last push on our 18 mile day. Heddon-On- the-Wall, Newcastle.
Gino D’Acampo: Perfect quayside spot with well thought out Italian menu and wine list. Great location for hungry trail walkers and free limoncello if you ask nicely! Bridge Court, The Quayside, Newcastle upon Tyne.
The Botanist: Trendy and lively, plant filled bar and restaurant in the heart of Newcastle. Great selection of G’n’Ts, delicious sharing platters and what look like fantastic hanging kababs. Monutment Mall, Newcastle upon Tyne.
