Of all its archaeological sites Meroë is Sudan’s most famous. A collection of damaged but regal structures rise out of the empty desert as an enduring symbol of the might of the Kush Empire. Over 2000 years old, these pyramids mark the burial sites of ancient royalty. After standing proud for millennia, Italian treasure hunter Giuseppe Ferlini changed their shape forever in 1834 when he raided and thoughtlessly decapitated these ancient wonders in a unsuccessful search for gold. Although disfigured their dignity remains intact, an un-moving testament to the greatness of a now much forgotten empire in the ever-shifting sands of the desert.
It may be Sudan’s most visited site but like everywhere else in the country, tourist infrastructure is virtually non-existent. Visible from the road the pyramids themselves act as signposts and guided us off the public bus. Alone in the desert without a clear route to the entrance we realised the walk was a lot further than it looked; at mid-day with a limited supply of water this was a stupid time to visit.
We foolishly waved away two men on camels who had galloped out of the emptiness, hoping to cash in on the unsteady flow of tourism in the area. Red faced and heat weary we arrived at this incredible collection of pyramids. One reason visiting Meroë can be so special is that you are more than likely to have it to yourself. As we arrived the only coach of tourists we had seen in Sudan did too. Stepping off an air-conditioned vehicle they energetically viewed the ancient ruins whilst we sluggishly pulled our weary limbs through scorching sand from one tomb to another.
Even though we were dehydrated and somewhat delirious the impeccably stacked stonework and intricately carved hieroglyphics took our minds off the inch of boiling water we had left in our bottles. Spread over a number of acres there is a lot to explore here with the pyramids in varying states of preservation. Whilst we were here archaeologists worked on restoring a number of sites to their former glory. Although battered by time it does not take much imagination to conjure up the supreme reverence that this site once inspired.
Not only does historical interest await inside the tombs but so does shade! This meant we spent considerable time inside these shelters, pondering the lives of the ordinary people who built the royal tombs as well as the dead that they were constructed for. Unfortunately we may have spoilt the curated images the other tourists were trying to capture as we lay slumped in the corner of the tombs.
Although we wanted to contribute to the preservation of this spectacular site not only did the tourist centre not exist but there was also no official to give ticket money to. Throughout Sudan this much needed strand of income is often not collected, depleted visitor numbers and limited infrastructure perpetuate a sad lack of investment and tourism.
We would have liked to spend longer exploring however once we had run out of water the 40 degree heat became too much and it was time to head back out into the desert. Local trinkets can be bought from a few lonely stalls outside the site but otherwise there is nothing else on the dusty path to the road.
There are no bus stops so flagging down a passing vehicle was the only chance of a lift. Oil tankers wizzed pass, tooting horns in a joyous yet unhelpful hello, and coaches already full continued on their journey. As the heat sparkled before our eyes and we wondered if this was one unprepared outing too many, a group of oil workers came to our rescue in a 4 x 4 and dropped us off in Shendi.
There are much better ways to visit the archaeological splendor of Meroë than the way we did. Even so nothing can take away from seeing such a wondrous site that so few even know about. From the world famous pyramids of Giza to these smaller but no less awe-inspiring ones we had traversed the ancient course of kingdoms. Meroë stood up as an epic finale, its lesser known history just as fascinating and one which should have more prominence on the world stage.
