The Ancient City of Thebes, now known as Luxor, has drawn visitors for thousands of years. The Nile is the life-blood of the city and is at its best at dawn when silhouettes of hot air-balloons rise into the sky or at dusk when the vibrant cocktail-sky illuminates the hills of the West Bank.
Due to its historic importance and age there is a wealth of history to see here. Karnak, the second largest ancient religious site in the world, is one of the highlights. A place of pilgrimage when Amun, the sun god, was at the height of his popularity. Today visitors come from all over the world to see the remains of this great temple as well, of course, as the incredible tombs of the Pharaohs in the Valley of the Kings on the West Bank. There are a number of museums here, our favourite being the Mummification Museum, which graphically explains the process. At night Luxor is reminiscent of a seaside resort, with an ancient illuminated temple at its centre.
Being a global tourist destination does mean Luxor’s beautiful Nile setting is often crowded with cruise ships and heaving with vendors trying to flog carriage rides and other wares. Feeling hassled is inevitable, especially with the downturn in tourism over recent years, although this does mean that bargain rates are available for hotels. In spite of the hassle you could not come to Egypt without visiting Luxor and we had an unforgettable day out here.
Highlights
Getting Here
Cairo – Luxor: Watania sleeper train, $80pp twin cabin with dinner and breakfast
Sleeping
Eatabe Hotel: The promise of this 4 star hotel did not quite live up to its flashy pictures but the Nile side location and clean comfortable beds mitigated the lack of working sockets and lights. With affordable rates, a tasty varied breakfast, a swimming pool and a well stocked hotel bar, Eatabe was an ideal base for exploring the sights of ancient Egypt. Cornish El Nil, East Bank.
Eating
Sofra Restaurant and Cafe : Serving tasty traditional Egyptian dishes, this beautiful old townhouse with antique furniture and mosaic floors is a lovely setting for dinner. The warm atmosphere and elegant private dining rooms makes eating here feel both special and homely. 90 Mohamed Farid Street
Street Falafel: These bright green deep fried treats can be found in unassuming curbside eateries. Best enjoyed straight out of the fryer.
G&Ts: Although there is not a drinking culture in Egypt you can find alcohol in hotel bars and the odd liquor store. After hours of sightseeing we found a couple of cold gin and tonics the perfect way to round off a day spent with the pharaohs.
