Sprawled around the confluence of the Nile this sweltering, dusty capital feels a million miles away from the one storey towns we had traced along the river. Big, busy and modern, Khartoum is not a charming city to get lost wandering in however like all capital cities it tells a story of the nation’s identity.
Not long ago Khartoum was an international melting pot where people came to prosper in the richness of Sudan, a gateway to sub-Saharan Africa. Since the liberalism of the 60s and 70s freedom has been eroded leaving only a trace of its once thriving multi-cultural prosperity. We visited in the last weeks of president Bashir’s stifling grip on power when the nations need for change was palpable. The epicentre of peaceful protest, it is Khartoum that drives forward Sudan’s new chapter.
A map of Khartoum and Omdurman illustrates the power divide of its people. Working neighbourhoods are cluttered and hard to navigate but are vibrant thoroughfares of community. Wide, empty boulevards surround the extravagant presidential palaces and ministerial buildings, the streets devoid of almost all life except the armed guards.
This is not a city that had pavements in mind when it was built and being a pedestrian is hard work. Mustering up the energy to face the sweat, dust and traffic whilst traversing the city rewards you with a glimpse into Khartoum’s varied industries.
Trade abounds in the gridlocked streets; barbers set up chairs under arches, hawkers sell cigarettes, nut-brittle and phone credit, and stalls slot into any available space offering goods from fresh fruit to phone cases. As always you are never too far from a tea-lady! The soundtrack to this bustling environment is a mangled noise of crackled music, shouted greetings, blaring megaphones, honking horns and the regular call to prayer. Traders do not always have the chance to make it to the mosque so places of commerce pause to become places of temporary worship.
Highlights
Getting Here
Shendi – Khartoum: Buses run throughout the day 3 hour drive – 120SDP
Sleeping
Acropole Hotel: This Khartoum establishment is the oldest hotel in the city and a known hot-spot for archaeologists. The interior is faded but spotless and the Greek family who own and run the hotel will ensure your stay is nothing but comfortable. Staying here will grant you access to the Greek Club and its swimming pool. $100 twin room. Zubeir Pascha Street.
Al Alaham: Sparkling clean, great value for Khartoum and with actual hot water this was a lucky find. Friendly staff and tasty breakfast which can be enjoyed in the tended garden. $50 twin room. Ahmed Makki Abdu Street
Eating
Assaha: Delicious Lebanese food in a lovely courtyard setting. With great prices to match the service this quickly became a favourite. Africa Street.
Ozone: A stylish, expensive cafe that sells western fare to the Khartoum elite. Find burgers and ice-cream in this beautiful garden setting. Khartoum 2.
Almonalisa: Family friendly restaurant serving all the Sudanese favourites including fresh juices. This busy spot is popular with locals and well worth waiting for a table. Nasir Extention Street
Nile Street: This stretch of road comes to life at night when tea-ladies set up their stalls and friends meet to while the night away chatting over tea. Nile Street.
