Karima greeted us with such a relaxed and friendly welcome that it became one of our favourites stopovers. In-spite of its seeming obscurity this town is home to some of the best archaeology in Sudan and the sacred mount of Jebel Barkal.
This small single-storey town is the biggest and best connected in the region, putting into context just how small and isolated most Sudanese villages are. After a 6 hour journey of endlessly repeating desert, buildings on the outskirts of town rise from the hostile terrain. The heart of the town is buzzing, with the busy central crossroads a hub for transport, surrounded by shops and restaurants, brought to life by locals and travellers.
The adjacent souk is a great place to wander if you are in search of local dress, freshly ground spices, Nile grown fruit and veg, and like anywhere in the world mass-produced plastic junk. Carry on a little further and you come to allotments of local people that make up a bright patchwork of green where the town meets the banks of the Nile.
When the local mosque announces its final call to prayer the bus station transforms into a social hubbub of tea stalls. Women set up circles of plastic chairs, centred around cabinets displaying jars of different teas and coffee to be set to boil on a small accompanying stove. This window of time brings everyone in Karima together in the unifying pleasure of tea and a chat. Getting involved in tea-culture was our favourite way to spend an evening.
Despite language barriers there was a huge willingness to communicate and the welcome we found here was unbelievably warm.
Highlights
Getting Here
Abri – Dongola: 7am Mini bus 200SDP 2-3hrs drive. In Dongola take a Tuk-Tuk to the other bus station 30SDP. The public toilet is very clean if you use the back section. Dongola – Karima Minibus 150SDP 2.5hrs drive.
We did not get the chance to stay in Dongola however it looked like it might be an interesting place to stop.
Sleeping
Al Nasr: Basic, dusty accommodation with string-framed beds, a choice of squatter or western style toilet and cold showers either way. It is one of the only places to stay in town and very reasonably priced. 200SDP twin room – Wifi if you ask.
Eating
Road-side restaurants: Surrounding the central transport hub are a selection of restaurants serving up ful stew, tamiya (falafel), omelettes with a side of pickled cucumber. All accompanied with a few rounds of flat-bread and shata (chilli sauce)
El Tayebet: A tasty selection of meats to chose from at this grill, including rotisserie chicken and goat. Ful obviously also available!
Pastry Shops: Sudan enjoys sweet, sticky, baklava-like pastries covered in syrup, delicious! Buy a plateful and share with your old neighbours.
Tea Ladies: Scattered around town during the day these portable cafes are a great way to get to know the people of Karima. Run by women you’ll find spiced black tea and coffee as well as delicious hibiscus all served in small glasses. At night the transport hub becomes tea lady central with the whole town coming out to socialise.
