Picking up the path at the Roman Army Museum we were excited to be back on the Hadrian’s Wall National Trail after being blown away by our Part One adventure last year. This time our route started with one of the most popular sections, which includes extensive and outstanding archaeological remains, brilliant museums and staggering wild scenery. After the flats of the west and the picturesque hills of Cumbria this part of the path most strongly evokes what standing on the frontier of an empire, looking into the wilds of enemy territory might feel like.
Over five days we journeyed up and down steep crags, through idyllic farmland and along the historically industrious River Tyne. Our footsteps were steeped in the the lives of the soldiers defending the Wall but a highlight was discovering the world of their civilian counterparts, particularly at the incredible Vindolanda Museum. Walking east to west meant we visited Newcastle, appreciating the working history of its once teeming river banks and the strategic role of this northern hub through time. Ending in South Shields meant we had traversed the country from coast to coast, a satisfying accomplishment at a time when so many plans were far from linear. Go forth!
Day One
Roman Army Museum to Steel Rigg – 6 Miles (+ 4 miles back to Bardon Mill via Vindolanda)
1130 miles from Rome and we were back on the trail, starting the day at the Roman Army Museum with the goal of ascending the steep cliffs of the trail to reach sister site, Vindolanda. Small, engaging and fact filled, the Roman Army Museum perfectly sets the scene for the archaeological remains that are soon to come. As the name suggests this museum focuses on the lives of the soldiers that built and patrolled the Wall and its fortifications. Archaeological evidence is backed up by the extraordinary finds of written records at Vindolanda.
The might of the Roman Empire was built on its army, absorbing men from different nations as it grew. From the famed Syrian archers to cavalry and infantry from across Europe and Northern Africa as well as recruits from local villages. This diverse body of men were assimilated into the ranks to serve Rome with the promise of citizenship and land after 25 years of service. Most never made it to this, dying in far flung lands, but those that did were aspirational to recruits at the beginning of their tenure in the dark and wild north of England.
Organisation was key to Rome’s strength and exemplified by the activities of the army. Soldiers were trained to fight but the skills and trades they learned off the battle field were key to upholding their progressive way of life and Rome’s cultural dominance. As we scaled the steep path of crags that once defined the frontier it was clear that without such a highly organised force the Wall would not have been possible.
It is easy to see why this rugged and dramatic section of the National Trail is one of its most popular. This weather-beaten geographical frontier no longer barrages soldiers with the elements but now buffets walkers taking in the magnificent views and sheep who call it home. Tangible history in the form of ruined sections of wall, turrets and milecastles are scattered at regular intervals along this undulating dragons back of path. Energised by the power of the wind our feet tramped along with the lost tread of the legions as we spread our arms and embraced a perfect day of walking.
Leaving the trail behind we diverted to Vindolanda, a settlement pre-dating the Romans but brought to the height of its prosperity during their rule. The quantity and unique quality of the finds here mean the ruins and respective museum should not be missed. It is here that we found out about the civilian lives that overlapped with army life along the Wall. This contextualises the military history by bringing to life the ordinary day-to-day of the past which unifies our modern lives with theirs, despite the 1800 year age gap.
Over 5,000 shoes belonging to women, men and children have been excavated, each with an individual design reflecting the eternal human desire for personal style and fashion. Thrown into the ditches around the town and preserved in anaerobic (oxygen free) conditions, the patterned studded soles and intricately punched leather are in almost perfect condition and an emotive site to behold. Just like today, it’s always one that’s left behind, with only one pair in the whole collection!
Finds at Vindolanda include artefacts from every aspect of Roman life including items from the home, gambling dens, drinking holes and of course the barracks. The most spectacular find of all is a huge collection of writing tablets, named Britain’s greatest archaeological treasure by the British Museum. This collection is outstanding, it not only supports Roman archaeological remains but uniquely unveils first-hand impressions. They describe logistics such as troop deployments and good supplies as well giving an insight into the friendships and everyday cares of the people that lived and loved here. One of the oldest known birthday invitations in the world which is also one of the oldest known messages in Latin by a woman, is on one of these tables and reads with a sentiment that could have been written today.
With all of this incredible context, wondering through the visible ruins of the town and fort is particular immersive. The central road is clearly identifiable along with what would have been small dwellings and shops, the granary and taverns. The drainage and remains of the heated bath house once again reference the organised might of Rome and how advanced this way of life was in ‘barbaric’ Britain. With excavations ongoing and the knowledge that nine forts were built on top of each other there are many layers of life and history still to uncover.
Day Two
Steel Rigg to Chollerford – 12 Miles
This iconic section of the route is characterised by the lurching undulant nature of the path. Following the ridges uncompromising contours we hauled ourselves to the top of each peak. With only our bags on our backs we appreciated what a feat it must have been to build a 15ft wall on such terrain. We wondered if the spectacular views from the uppermost plateaus made the Romans pause to admire the landscape just as we did.
A dip in the landscape between two crags, know as the Sycamore Gap is home to an iconic tree and a much photographed celebrity of this section of The Wall. The Wall unifies all who walk its length, with many people stopping to share the experience of their journey. Locals are proud of the heritage on the door-step and also want to hear about travels along the path as they enjoy the history and scenery on everyday strolls!
A small woodland with a meandering path between the trunks was a surprising natural feature at the top of these ragged cliffs. Hushed and serene on one side, the fir-lined path offers glimpses to small lakes far below on the other. Housesteads Fort appears in front of you as you come out of the woods, another fantastic site to visit with a small informative museum. The extensive ruins clearly show the defined set up of a Roman fort with the commander’s house in the centre, surrounded by uniform barracks and the granary with its trademark stone stilts to keep grain fresh. On the outer edge of the site are the latrines, so fantastically preserved you can almost see the many soldiers who once sat together over the cut outs in the stone, with a flowing stream of water dissecting the room and hopefully ensuring cleanliness!
The path continues, up and down, spattered with woodland, all’st the while becoming wilder. The escarpment to what would have been the Scottish side is steep and rocky forming a geographical frontier, looking back over the ridge-backed mountains you can clearly see how this would have acted as a natural defence. When we stood on its edge with our hair blowing wildly in the wind we felt like we were at the edge of an empire. Scotland no longer abuts the Wall and the dense forests that once grew here are long gone. Peatlands and moorlands now stretch for purple miles, hostile to both grazing sheep and human inhabitants with only the odd hardy house dotting the distance.
Whilst the many hills might pull and stretch at your thighs and calves the higher path does keep you away from the pesky cows, a widely unknown potential hazard of the English countryside. In the miles leading to Chollerford the National Trail softens and flattens out into waving grassy meadows of farmland meaning you may now need to navigate the cows to admire the fragments of wall that begin to only thinly punctuate the land!
After two days and 24 miles we were saturated in history, spoiled by epic views and our feet were nearly spent! The pool at our hotel was welcome relief and much needed respite as we still had many miles to go, including 18 the next day!
Day Three
Chollerford to Newburn – 18 miles
Due to the pandemics drive of staycations the places available to stay had set us up for a rather unfortunately long day three. We started by refuelling in the much acclaimed Riverside Café with massive bacon and sausage sandwiches. The path follows the road for a few kilometres, don’t be fooled by a tricksy signpost leading to a turret that might send you on a unnecessary detour like it did us!
Finally back on track we traversed fields and woodland in glorious sunshine, all the while on a steady incline. Although not the sudden steep slopes of the previous days, this ascent is relentless for the first few miles. Despite this we were as merry as the waving arms of wheat in the luscious arable farmland that now dominated the vista.
Clusters of villages and the many dotted homestead differentiated this section of the walk from the wild expanses we had already tramped through. Fragments of wall are few and far between with pylons and modern infrastructure now signposting the trail as the route follows the road to Newcastle, absorbed by the hustle and bustle of the present. An ever continuous presence is the Vallum. Dug by the Romans, this defensive ditch has left a mark on the landscape from east to west and is in many ways a more lasting visual reminder of their rule.
Worthy of a stop and timed just right for a cup of tea and a rest for our woebegone feet is the picturesque Mithraic Temple. Unobtrusively sitting in farmland, this small temple features an alter and the ruins of statues that would once have been the focus of religious observance for the popular religious cult of Mithros.
Sad to be leaving the raw beauty and tangible history of the central section of National Trail there is one advantage to being closer to civilisation, the pubs along the way! We stopped off at three watering holes, Errington Coffee House (Portgate), The Robinhood (East Wallhouses) and The Swan (Heddon-on-Wall), for refreshing pints and much needed respite for the sore and unhappy feet.
The push to Heddon-on-Wall was tough going. The path is still surrounded by rich farmland however hemmed in on either side by the increasingly built up areas of greater Newcastle. The final miles to Newburn take you through a golf course and along an old railway line that runs alongside the Tyne. This would have been a pleasant evening stroll if we had not been hobbling through the crepuscular gloom after 10 hours of walking with the Big Lamp Brewery calling to tell us they were about to shut. Luckily we made it just in time to a warm welcome, clean rooms and two large glasses of red wine.
With weary achievement in our bones and relieved to be in bed with a glass of wine the end of day three was bitter-sweet, as we were nearing the end of our great journey along the Wall
Day Four
Newburn to Wallsend – 11 miles
Now in the suburbs proper, the idyllic countryside was far behind and a new facet of the National Trail was revealed. From here on out we walked along the River Tyne, through parks and housing and business estates. The river was talking us to the hub of the region and illuminating the significance this body of water has had through times. Older than even the Romans this rivers importance has flowed though many eras from when it was the water giving lifeline of ancient Britons, to the accessible mouth used by both the Romans and Vikings to the industrious thoroughfare of the 1800s.
Keeping us company on our final miles we floated with the Tyne into the centre of Newcastle, delirious with the satisfaction of the end being almost in sight. The dramatic modern infrastructure of Newcastle’s seven bridges juxtaposes the lost monuments of the past, its sharp contrast pulling us forward in time as we passed under the many arches and into Gino D’Acampo’s quayside restaurant. As we cheersed our journey we bumped into fellow walkers we had met along the way, glad to share in the comradery of the walk.
Slightly mismanaging our expectations we dropped our bags at the hotel and changed into dresses for the last five miles of the walk to Wallsend. This trek out of the centre was a concrete path on the embankment, overgrown, covered in graffiti and host to young Geordies doing wheelies on their bikes. The final few miles were not the Wall’s finest and whilst we were delighted to meet the end of the National Trail our dresses were perhaps not necessary!
Segedunum Fort was closed and there was not a pub in sight for a celebratory drink, we made up for this by getting the metro back to the centre and celebrating in G’n’T style at The Botanist. We had completed Hadrian’s Wall National Trail but still had a few miles to go tomorrow to complete the coast to coast journey.
Day Five
Wallsend to South Shields – 6 Miles
The fort that once stood at the edge of Hadrian’s Wall looks like a barren field with barely visible remains edged by modern houses. Segedunum may not immediately wow however this plot of land has been witness to an incredible amount of history, the centuries may have destroyed and built over the original structure however this once forgotten plot has been reclaimed to again pay testament to the might of Rome. The timeline video in the viewing tower gives context to the history of this site and the museum a good introduction, especially for those walking the Wall East to West.
We plodded along the embankment, sure we would come across a newsagent for water, however there is nothing on the this last bit of trail in terms of refreshments! Some of the route does take you through green parks however most of it is along a cycle-path along a grey and busy main road. As we reached the quaint houses of North Shields we were just in time to get the ferry over the mouth of the River Tyne to South Shields, which leaves every half hour.
In typical fashion we were now a little pressed for time to get our train back to London. We were keen however to have a quick look at the Arbeia Roman Fort, which for those less tardy definitely deserves a bit more time. This site reinforces just what a melting pot the Roman Empire was and the ancestral legacy that contributes to the diverse make-up of Britain today. There are well preserved structures on site and artefacts in the small but packed museum which include some unique grave stones, such as that of a freed slave Briton married to a Syrian soldier. Interesting reconstructions also feature, giving a sense of the life and colour that is not always easy to gauge when viewing the grey stone ruins.
With only enough time to dash down to greet the sea with a wave of our hands before hurrying back for our train, our Hadrian’s Wall adventure was over before we really knew it. In a year where the possibility for adventure seemed limited we had found a path that highlighted the wonders of the world on our doorstep. Tramping in the footsteps of others, both ancient and modern, creates a bond with the Wall; we are all a part of its history.
