By a stroke of luck (or so we believed) we found ourselves at The Green Ranch, a horse ranch on the idyllic shores of Lake Bosumtwi in central Ghana. This we thought would be a perfect place to volunteer for two weeks. Set on a steep hill overlooking the largest natural lake in Ghana the view from the ranch was breathtaking. Lake Bosumtwi is incredibly serene, a uniquely beautiful place dotted with small rural communities that twinkle around its shore at night (when the electricity is on, very hit and miss). Warm and bilharzia-free the lake is the perfect place for a dip and to observe the local fishermen at work.
Life on The Green Ranch kicks off at 6.45. As the sun rose Tash would make her way to the kitchen and Harry to the stables to feed and muck out the horses. By 9 we reconvened for a breakfast of brown brown (a smooth brown paste akin to porridge), toast with groundnut paste (local peanut butter) and tea. We had to provide our own sugar after the first day as the amount we needed in the brown brown was not sustainable! We ate out the back of the house crouched around a broken table with Kofi, the groom-come-handyman we worked with. He also appreciated the extra sugar!
Kofi in return introduced us to bolfrot, pronounced ball-fruit (Harry’s new favourite fruit) and never failed to acquire them for our elevenses. Not to be confused with actual fruit this delicacy has nothing to do with trees but is in fact an insanely dense, round do-nut style treat, deep-fried to perfection. We became somewhat addicted to their greasy goodness!
Strictly vegetarian, the food at The Green Ranch was new to us, especially after having just spent a week eating nothing but fried chicken! Lunchtime was boiled yam/plantain with a puréed vegetable sauce (palava) and dinner rice/pasta/gari with vegetables or pulses. Our newly rounded waistlines definitely benefited however it probably increased our craving for bolfrot!
After breakfast we were given various tasks which we were encouraged to complete ‘fast fast’ and to exacting yet unclear standards. Without a set programme the random schedule was ever changing from painting, to sweeping, to weeding (watch out for black cobras), to helping build a bridge. The only thing we were ever sure of were the horses feeding times, 7, 12 and 6, the last of which marked the end of our working day.
One of the more tiring jobs, one that our obruni selves where not used to, was being sent out in the midday sun to cut grass for the horses. The grass is like something out of a sci-fi film, with the same appearance as grass back home but towering 10ft tall and razor sharp. With machete in hand we tramped into the snake infested bush, covered from chin to toe for protection and already sweating profusely. We hacked for hours and marvelled at Kofi’s strength and stamina as we were forced to take breaks in the shade to avoid collapse, no longer caring about the snakes that might get us! Drenched, bleeding and exhausted we were met by Elodie (the owner) in the van and with a morale boosting ‘fast fast’.
We really enjoyed being on the ranch however found Elodie difficult to work for. Clear instructions were never given yet criticism abounded, however hard we worked it never seemed good enough. Kofi, who had become our friend, had only been working with horses for three months and his quickly acquired competence and admirable work ethic was not appreciated at all. Never complaining he was shouted for continuously, talked down to, expected to use old and broken tools and had little set free time. We could not do his job!
Although there were difficulties, living on the ranch was not without its perks. The best thing about working here was the riding. Hacking out through tropical farms, along the rocky shore and through local villages was brilliant. The horses are fit and healthy so riding them is an absolute pleasure. Despite numerous distractions and hazards they are exceptionally well behaved making this an excellent place to come for both beginners and experienced riders. The three days we spent in the saddle in such an amazing location were some of the best of the trip. What beats galloping through the African bush?!
Unfortunately, our time on The Green Ranch came to an abrupt end one morning whilst we were ankle deep in manure. Half way through clearing the pens with one broken broom we were told to finish the job and get ready to leave. It wasn’t a scene you would want to be sacked in! Elodie had decided things were not working, this seemed like a complete turn around as the day before she had said we were to be left to look after the horses when she went to Accra. Apparently it had something to do with being nervous of a horse that tried to kick all of us including her in the head. It all seemed rather strange.
Things escalated when taking longer that she wanted us to, Elodie stormed into our room (Tash still in her pants) and began to throw our things out into the pouring rain. After five days of hard work we were left confused and angry huddling from the storm in the meagre porch with our belongings strewn everywhere.
We could not have believed things could get more ridiculous than this….they did! Elodie accused us of stealing a torch causing real uproar in the village and making the manager of our new accommodation cry. Without getting in touch with us she sent her husband to our lodge at night and in the pouring rain; he confirmed the torch we have is not hers and apologised to the manager. This all seemed like madness.
She then tried to stop Kofi having his time off (first in 3 months) because we had plans together. It was a thoroughly nasty end to what we had hoped would be a great two weeks. Having come as very willing volunteers we left feeling like this was the last place you would want to come and work. Elodie told Tash/me that if she had to tell her something more then once then she should not bother helping, this seemed very unfair and sums up how things are managed on the ranch. Although we would highly recommend the horse riding we cannot say the same for the volunteering. Even though working at The Green Ranch did not go quite to plan we are glad that it brought us to Lake Bosumtwi and our new friend Kofi.
After unceremoniously coming a cropper we found a new lakeside home and continued to enjoy the beautiful surroundings. From mares to a ‘mare, life around the lake is not always as calm as its waters.
