Crossing into Sub-Saharan Africa on the waters of the Nile was an allure we could not resist. There are two ways of getting from Aswan to Wadi Halfa, by bus or by ferry; the bus has a more regular schedule, but the ferry held the promise of adventure.
With little information available online, we managed to source tickets for the weekly Sunday ferry in Aswan. First class cabins sell out at least a week before so we purchased second class tickets (325EGP each) and were told to arrive at the port for 10am. Although punctual departure seemed unlikely, we spent our taxi ride from Asswan (150EGP) in fear of missing it. With a eight hour wait before we left these fears were comically unfounded.
The bureaucratic process of leaving Egypt and boarding the ferry takes some time. First there is the exit tax (50EGP – dollars not accepted), then the obligatory bag search, followed by another exit form (2EGP – pink for the girls, blue for the boys), visas stamped, and finally a passenger registration form to be completed before being given food tokens and welcomed aboard.
As the locals knew there would be a long wait before setting sail we were amongst the first passengers to board. The second class accommodation is below deck with different sections for men and women. Both are made up of long benches with luggage racks over head, people mark out their space with bags and scarfs, ensuring their bed for the night. With only a few portholes letting in light and air, travellers were keen to reserve the space under these first. The women’s section was sluiced with water however it remained as filthy as the rest of the boat. The sluicing also seemed slightly pointless as there was an issue with continuously encroaching poo water from a broken pipe. The bathroom facilities consist of dirty squatter toilets and a sink. It is worth knowing that there is a hierarchy of use and the older generation of women get priority in the morning.
Although the level of cleanliness left a lot to be desired, the ferry was sea-worthy and the kindness shown to us by the staff and other passengers made us glad to be aboard. Everybody wanted to chat, welcome and befriend us.
In the cafeteria on the top deck the many hours we waited passed with numerous teas and conversations. It was not long before we had been asked to share a meal of addas (lentil stew mopped up with flat-bread) with the crew. huddled around a big plastic bowl we took it in turns to scoop morsels with our right hand. Regardless of the level of English of many of the passengers (and our lack of Arabic) our mutual eagerness to communicate meant that we felt like we had made a number of friends before we had even left the port.
As we chatted, slowly but steadily, every available inch of space was packed with goods. Fridges, freezers and all manner of home appliances were hoisted aboard on the backs of young men. First they filled the hold, then the cabins and finally the aisles and corridors until it felt like human passengers were a second thought. It became clear that this route is primarily a way for people to buy and transport goods that would otherwise be difficult to get hold of in Sudan.
Finally the horn sounded, the ropes were untied and we set off: or so we thought. Just as we pulled away from shore there was a flurry of activity, a lot of shouting and the appearance of yet more white goods! Unbelievably after eight hours of loading the ferry still went back…no fridge was to be left behind!
After setting off for the second time it was a joy to finally be sailing on the calm waters of Lake Nassar. The setting sun painted the sky pink and we headed for Sudan with an escort of birds that seemed to be paying homage to the last rays of the day. With cargo loaded and sleeping spots secured everybody gathered on deck to soak up the tranquility of twilight and to pay their own adulations as the sun went down.
Voyaging through the beauty of the evening the deck became a sacred space, carpets were rolled out and a travelling Imam led the evening prayer. Standing in rows with heads bowed the men became one as they followed the familiar motions and rituals of prayer. We gathered with the women to watch from the sidelines as they whispered along, not allowed to take part. We were spectators to this transcendent scene and regardless of belief it was impossible not to feel a sense of peace.
Returning to the cafeteria we traded in our tokens for a metal tray of rice, stew, pickled veg, flat bread and what we hoped was a chicken escalope. We spent the evening playing games (mainly ludo on a smart phone) and getting to know our ferry friends better. As the vessel quietened we headed down to the women’s section and our stretch of bench. Here the universal trust of sisterhood enveloped us and there was no chance of sleep as the curiosity of our cabin mates led to many more hours of chatter. Much can be said for the hilarity of trying to count to 10 in a different language, which can endear you to children and adults alike. There was a lot of interest in our journey and we kindly received a number of invitations to stay with our new sisters.
The narrow benches and hubbub of the cabin did not make for the best night’s sleep but waking up to glimpse the epic temple of Abu Simbal in the morning light made the discomfort worth it. As we passed into Sudanese waters everyone personally welcomed us with a warmth that we would soon learn is ubiquitous in Sudan.
Arriving into Wadi Halfa’s port was like reaching an outpost at the end of the world. We pulled up to shore alongside a tarmac road complete with lights that disappeared into the depths of the water. A few concrete buildings in the middle of the desert were the only landmarks as far as the eye could see.
After scrabbling to disembark and to try to get ahead of the white goods, which were already being unloaded, we went to give in our entrance card which had been filled out on the boat. Trying to understand where to get our visa registered (required within 3 days of arrival) was a challenge: it became clear it was not at the port. We boarded a waiting minivan to Wadi Halfa (30SDP) where there was a police station that provides the service, (540 SDP). Make sure you have spare passport photos.
We stopped long enough in Wadi Halfa to sample our first ful (bean stew) and to get a sim card (20 SDP with 80 SDP credit – registered with a passport) before jumping on a minibus to Abri (150SDP 2.5 hours) excited to continue on our adventure.
Travelling to Sudan by ferry was an amazing experience. The pace of travel allowed us to appreciate the serenity of this important body of water and learn about the lives of the people who travel on it. The unexpected highlight of the journey was the warm kindness of the Sudanese people. Before even setting foot on the ground we knew Sudan was going to be a very special place to visit. If you have the time take the ferry, this journey is more than just a mode of transport.
