We were drawn to Gonder by it Lord of the Rings-esque name however unfortunately no kings remain only their empty homes. Ethiopia’s fourth largest, this city is not only a good stop off before heading to the Simien mountains but also an interesting historical centre.
Gondar was the country’s capital for 250 years until 1855 and during this period the ruling emperors built some impressive castles that would not look out of place in Europe. Dubbed the ‘Camelot’ of Africa these buildings can be found in the centre of the city inside the walled Royal Enclosure. During the Italian occupation of Ethiopia 1936-41, the fascists took the Royal Enclosure as their military HQ. Unfortunately this meant that during the war the Enclosure sustained heavy bombing from the Allied forces leaving many of the buildings in ruins.
Not however put off by a ruinous castle we were excited to explore and headed off on our white steeds (our feet) to see them. We reached the enclosure at more of a hobble than a gallop, having just finished our quest in the Simien mountains, our toes had not yet fully recovered. At first glimpse of the castles we were instantly impressed having not expected such grand stone architecture.
The first and largest castle is that built by Emperor Fasilidas who took Gonder as his capital in 1635. His residence was constructed around five years later in a blend of Portuguese, Axumite and Indian styles. This is the oldest and most complete building in the enclosure and it is easy to feel like a real knight gallivanting around the large open rooms and hiding in secret annexes.
Not wanting to be outdone, the following emperors all built castle of their own. They however took the greatest hits during the bombing and lie in various states of ruin. As we wandered round, the bright sunlight bounced off the castles giving them a timeless air of beauty. You could easily spend a couple of hours exploring the extensive collection of 17th and 18th century buildings and the 100birr entrance fee is entirely worth it.
If you are on the way up to the Simien Mountains and Axum or down to Bahir Dah and Addis then there is no reason not to stop in Gonder. If you like castles as much as we do then you will not be disappointed by these ones. If you are a hungry knight then Tele-satellite Café is also not to be missed. You’ll find it under the post office and the ordinary or special nashtif (spicy bean dish) with fresh bread is delicious and enough to set you off on your next adventure!
