Arriving in Cairo at 4am was possibly the only time of day that we did not hear the continuous blare of car horns. If you don’t want to spend your entire trip waiting on the pavement then dodging traffic is a skill you need to pick up quickly.
Egypt’s capital may not be a pedestrian’s dream, however if you put in the leg-work you will be rewarded. The uneven streets swept us past a multitude of hidden mosques, took us through thousands of years of history, and unrolled sprawling views. The workers of Ancient Egypt built the iconic pyramids, yet wonders also prevail today in the ordinary, enterprising lives of modern citizens in the remarkable ‘Garbage City’.
Whilst finding your feet try not to linger too long looking lost, as we did, or you will inevitably be picked up by a charming fatherly figure offering directions. Although friendly this always ends in a papyrus and perfume establishment. It can be fun to learn about and be smothered in essential oils but it is up to you how many times you want this to happen in a day!
Tired and perfumed limbs will find new energy when nightly markets come to life and the city’s inhabitants emerge to mingle in the liveliness of the evenings. If the pace ever feels too hurried there is a cafe at every turn, where you can wade into the sweet spicy slowness that is equally characteristic of colossal Cairo.
Highlights
Sleeping
Bella Luna Hostel : This reasonably-priced, fifth floor hostel has large, grand but shabby rooms and is right in the middle of Cairo. Our en suite bathroom didn’t have a roof so make sure you share with someone you know well! The friendly staff made our stay a good one. 27 Talaat Harb St.
Eating
Koshary : This filling Egyptian staple immediately became a favourite, a carb-fuelled mix of lentils, rice and macaroni, topped with a spicy-tomato sauce, chickpeas, crispy onions, hot sauce and garlic vinegar. Head to the Abu Tarek on Sharia Champollion in Central Cairo for the best koshary in town.
Stuffed Pigeon at Gomhouriya : Our favourite meal in Egypt was roasted BBQ pigeon stuffed with delicious fragrant rice served with pickled salad and tahini sauce and pigeon broth to start. This tiny unassuming canteen in Central Cairo, is unmissable. Sharia Falaki
Bread Stalls : Found on a makeshift street store, or aloft the heads of cycling men, these round, slightly puffed breads are a staple worth trying.
Cafe Culture : Egyptian life centers around the consumption of tea and coffee. With cafes on every corner you can drop in at any time of day or night for a quick cup or a lazy session, there is no better way to soak up the soul of the city.
Mena House : In full view of the Great Pyramids of Giza, this Five Star hotel has to be one of the best locations in the world to enjoy a drink. Although upmarket it is definitely worth coming here for at least one post Pyramid ‘cheers’. 6 Pyramids Road, Giza
