Omdurman’s Souq is one of Sudan’s largest centres of trade, and should be seen as an entire neighbourhood rather than a contained market. Sitting on the opposite bank of the Nile to Khartoum and easily reached by bus from the central station, you’ll want to give yourself plenty of time to explore its expanse.
Visiting the souq gives an insight into what the day-to-day chore of shopping for household goods is like in the capital of Sudan. Crowded thoroughfares link the different districts of commerce with shoppers battling the noise and heat as they make their way from stall to shop. We were on a mission to buy gifts before returning home, a past-time that always takes up a significant chunk of time on our trips. There are a few shops here that sell standard African tourist tat, such as made in china masks and safari animals, however we were more interested in seeking out the ingenious everyday items we had seen being used throughout our trip. We are not sure these were received with quite the same enthusiasm as with which they were purchased but the store-owners were amused by the time and care we took in choosing items which they considered as nothing special.
Our mission took us through every district of this huge market; sometimes outside in the sun-soaked dusty lanes and other times through covered, cluttered warrens where wares spill out of purpose built cement rows of individual booths. Although Sudanese culture is generally one of great politeness, like markets the world over you have to have your wits about you to navigate the crowded paths and busy people. Not only do you need to dodge haggling shopkeepers, gossiping acquaintances, and laden shoppers but also an army of young men who pull cart loads of goods through the markets congested arteries, restocking stores and picking up loads from over zealous customers for an agreed price.
Stepping off the bus we could not at first see how this was a market of many different things as stalls selling clothes, shoes and bags was seemingly endless. We kept going and were eventually rewarded with other districts of an equally a large scale. Each street we passed was dedicated to a particular type of good from imported plastic bowls, china plates, and blankets to the areas of industry where items are made on the spot like gigantic metal ful containers, the small stoves used by tea-ladies and woven wicker. We took particular time looking at the goods of the metal-ware district, eventually leaving with a selection of spoons, steel knives, a rusted BBQ pan, a small brazier and a collection of jugs made from old cans. Things also got quite out of hand in the wicker district where the women openly laughed at us as we examined every dusty old bowl they had in the search for the best specimens.
We took a break for tea before hauling ourselves back up in the heat to delve into a myriad of spices and dried foodstuffs piled like pyramids. The bright yellow of turmeric, purple hibiscus and chillies in every shade of red stood out from the duller tones of the many types of pulses, rice and pasta. On old fashioned scales our purchases were weighed up in front of us with a practiced eye. Shatu (chilli sauce) had become a favourite condiment so we soon had a number of small plastic bags containing the chilli power needed to make it. Fresh food stalls bordered the meat and fish districts, where butchers booths are distinct with their blood smeared white tiles, and innards hanging from hooks. Close by a variety of fowl are stacked in cramped, dark, smelly cages, needless to say we didn’t get any presents from these alleys.
The hub-bub of the market is briefly still when the call to prayer radiates across the markets tannoys and mats unfold around the feet of passersby for a few precious seconds of peace.
Laden with enough goods to start our own small business, we felt we had done our friends and family at home proud. Weaving our way back as dusk descended we managed to sneak in one last purchase, delicious peanut brittle, not to be shared with our relatives but to be stuffed on the way back to Khartoum.
