Benin was a complete contrast to Senegal and we found it a lot harder travelling here. Saying that however it struck us both as a very interesting place and we had some of the best moments of the trip so far here. One of the most difficult elements of travelling here was that we found the majority of people hostile and suspicious towards us.
We think that three factors may have something to do with this atmosphere of distrust. Benin has kept itself politically isolated since the 1970’s until fairly recently, keeping it from progressing as the rest of the world and other African nations have. It also has a brutal history of its own Dahomey Empire working together with European powers to make it one of the worst affected areas in the slave trade. Perhaps the most relevant factor in the present day is Benin’s deep rooted voodoo beliefs that encourage a fear of the unknown, of harmful spirits and of retribution.
Benin’s economic difficulties are most noticeable in the poorly stocked markets. It is nearly impossible to find anything other than onions, yams and a few old tomatoes. The limited diet means that malnutrition is noticeable everywhere. Although agriculture dominates most people’s lives almost all is exported with local communities seeing little of the benefits. The staple is pounded yam or millet (a slimy tasteless dough) with spicy oil sauce or what we ate everyday (after trying the yam) omelette or omelette with spaghetti. It was monotonous fare (even when pasta and eggs are your favourite) however we enjoyed finding local cafeterias to make our own and the relationship we had with the people who ran them.
Regular power cuts characterise life in Benin, often making it feel there is more cut than power! People adapt to life without electricity but it makes all tasks more difficult and grinds business to a halt. Generators are few and far between with the majority of the population lighting candles when darkness comes.
One of our favourite things about Benin was its spectacular scenery, unspoilt and varying, it really is a country with some amazing natural sights to offer. Our visits to the Penjari Park and waterfalls of the north made even the most hostile of moments worth it. The southern coastal region has a more relaxed air although swimming is impossible due to the deadly undertows. Porto Novo and Ouidah are particularly chilled out places to have a good wander.
Benin’s troubled history means it remains underdeveloped however the potential for its future is massive. The fertile south is the perfect place for agricultural enterprise to grow and the needs of the population to be met. Its beautiful scenery and its status as one of the only places left to spot lions in West Africa means Benin’s tourist industry is one that is sure to pick up as it leaves political isolation. Although we often felt like outsiders, Benin is a fascinating country that is well worth visiting.
