Good town planning and long palm lined streets make Bahir Dar a city like no other we have come across in Africa. The wide boulevards and shore-side location make this place feel like the L.A of Ethiopia. You will however find yourself bumping along in a tuk-tuk rather than cruising around in an air-conditioned taxi!
Wandering the spacious main roads and winding back streets you will find prosperity as well as poverty. Middle class Ethiopians frequent the many cafés and restaurants that litter the city whilst the very desperate gather around St George’s church or roam the centre hoping for a handout. Although there may be a disparity of personal wealth there is not an attitude of division and this is greatly to Bahir Dar’s credit.
The city is situated on the edge of Lake Tana which is the largest lake in Ethiopia and the source of the Blue Nile. It is a hotspot for both Ethiopian and foreign tourists and a really lovely place to spend a few days. As it turned out we ended up spending far longer than we had expected here. An unforeseen illness saw Harry/me end up in a local clinic on a drip. The equipment was all sterile and the doctors were extremely friendly (Tash/I got chatted up whilst I/Harry lay hooked up to the IV!) but the shepherds in the waiting room, the overflowing harmful-waste bins, and the buzzing flies made this unlike any doctors surgery we had ever visited before. To get the diagnosis we were asked to step into the lab which was a light bulb in a box and a microscope! With some anti-biotics and reassurance it was not malaria we were sent on our way and after a few days in bed catching up on the Apprentice Harry/I was as good as new.
Luckily the hostel we were staying in was the perfect place to recuperate. Ghion Hotel is right on the lake side and offers reasonable priced rooms in a beautiful setting with the added bonus of temperamental WiFi. The flowers, trees and birds which grow and fly everywhere are as lovely as the staff who asked frequently if all was well at camp Rising Shoots. Be-warned though the food is not fit for human consumption!
Back on our travelling feet it was time to finally hit the tourist attractions. Our first outing took us by public bus to Tis Abay from where it is possible to visit the Blue Nile falls. A 40 minute walk cuts across farmland and the path of locals with their burdened donkeys. After crossing a beautiful 17th century bridge, Agam Dildi, you reach a perfect view of the crashing chocolate falls. As we are in rainy season the soil that has been washed into the river turns the falls into a Willy Wonka like spectacle! Our guide books say the waterfalls are only a trickle and not worth visiting but we found them to be pretty mighty!
The other major tourist attraction is taking a tour to visit the UNESCO protected monasteries on islands in the centre of the lake. The boat ride itself was our favourite part of the trip as we got to see panoramic views of the lake in the morning sunshine, fishermen at work in traditional papyrus boats, everyday life going on by the shore and even the snouts of a few hippos. This however could have easily been achieved on the public ferry alongside the locals and for a much cheaper price.
We found the monasteries themselves disappointing, the plain round buildings which are still in use have lost much of their 16th century origins to 19th century restoration and modern upkeep. Beyond the round structure, carved wooden beams and grand old doors the architecture is simple and it is the plethora of bright 2D religious paintings within which draws people to visit. The best bit of the monastery was the bell, which is a huge slab of stone suspended on rope that when struck with a small stone makes a surprisingly melodious chime. The 100 birr per person entrance fee (on top of tour and guide price) was frankly extortionate. We only paid to visit Ura Kidane Mihret but there are an abundance of monasteries scattered around Lake Tana, however women are not admitted to some. Unless you are religious we cannot really see how appealing visiting many would be. The islands are very beautiful and peaceful (except for the paths which lead to the monasteries which are lined with many vendors who mainly sell religious iconography) and you can even spot the odd monkey hopping through the trees.
Although not specifically for tourists one of the most enjoyable things to do in Bahir Dah is to visit the culture clubs. These are venues both big and small which host comedy, drama, music and dance every night of the week. Although we could not understand any of the comedy or drama we were always invited to take part in the dancing either on stage or in a cleared space in the centre of the room. Traditional Ethiopian dance is all in the shoulders and could put any body popper to shame. Shrugging, snapping, jerking, shaking, it is really difficult to master and once you have had a go your admiration for the skill of the dancers can only grow! Young and old everyone comes to enjoy the festive atmosphere of the culture clubs. Whether dancing or observing they are a great place to enjoy an evening with beer or honey wine in hand.
The market in Bahir Dar is also definitely worth a wander although watch out for hustlers who will follow you around and try to interfere in any transaction! Whether you are looking for woven cloth, traditional earthenware, goatskin poofs, spices, lentils or Ethiopian football shirts (everyone is caught up in qualifying fever!), new shoes, plastic flowers, or strange posters of tarted up children welcoming you to Ethiopia you can find it in this small local market.
Although unexpectedly long we really enjoyed our stay in Bahir Dah and there could not have been a much nicer place to be delayed. The many sights keep the visitors coming but it is also the natural beauty of the area which makes it so popular and a reason to return. Flowers are planted everywhere throughout the city and the abundance of colourful bird-life turns everyone into a twitcher. A refreshing and relaxing place to be with lots of things to do every Ethiopian trip deserves a stop in Bahir Dar.
