Atakpamé in central Togo has been our favourite city so far. On arrival we were greeted by a spectacular view of the sun setting over the surrounding mountain range. The bustling mountain top city was getting ready for the evening sell with oil lamps illuminating the women’s wares and shadows settling over the landscape as our bus struggled up the steep road from Kpalimé.

As darkness falls on Atakpamé vendors weave in between people and moto’s selling bread, avocado’s, boiled eggs and tchouk whilst stalls are set up at the roadside offering omelette, rice, fried cheese and ablo (steamed millet balls). Men selling various cuts of meat and entrails (often dog) from oil-barrel barbecues are normally situated next to bars, a favourite of ours for a beer and meat dinner.

By daylight the cobbled streets are a great place to wander and following the crooked paths to the Meteo centre at the top gives you panoramic views of the city and a glimpse of life on the incline, beauty salons and all. We even spotted a florescent pink chicken, who knows what had happened to him!

The city has a friendly atmosphere; whether it is helping to fix a broken flip-flop, offering a taste of local cooking, or directing us to a cheap place to stay the people here made us feel very welcome. The moto men however are as dishonest as always, but this did not put us off taking many motorbike rides around the city absorbing urban jungle life with the wind in our hair.

Atakpamé’s central location makes it a cross road for the country, meaning it is a Togolese melting pot and there is little excuse not to visit. This city stands out as a place to visit in it’s own right, an unusual feat considering the monotony of other African towns and cities where there is little aesthetic appeal. People have been flocking to Atakpamé for centuries and there is no reason if you are in Togo not to either, our recommendations are as high as the city itself!