After the tourist hustle of Luxor, arriving in laid-back Aswan was a welcome relief. This Nile-side town may be the last stop for cruise-liners but the rhythm of life here feels more in step with the daily routines of local people. As the last major Egyptian town en-route to Sudan, Aswan is home to the Nubian people and the gate-way to Sub-Saharan Africa.
Aswan is famous for its enormous and controversial dam, which was built in the 60s and created Lake Nasser. The lake subsumed many Nubian villages and an unknown amount of unearthed history. Even so many ancient sites can still be found, the most famous being Abu Simbal which was re-situated block by block before the water swamped its original home.
The geographical position of Aswan on the Nile and next to the dam means there is a wealth of bird life. If you are feeling temple weary a dawn boat trip is another way to appreciate the wonders of this ancient, life-giving river.
Highlights
Getting Here
Luxor – Aswan: Standard train 51LE, 4hrs (often delayed and ours was by 1.5hrs)
Sleeping
Nuba Dool Guest House: A warmer welcome you could not expect to find. Clean spacious en-suite rooms, a friendly family vibe and a truly delicious breakfast. The relaxing terrace overlooking the Nile is a reason to stay here in itself.
Eating
Gad: A reliable fast food falafel chain. Steaming hot and in fresh flat-bread, what more could you want? Order from a set menu and enjoy in house or in a nearby tea shop
Nubian Kitchen: With a tourist edge but with good food and views nonetheless, this restaurant is a great place to watch Nile-life float by if you have time to kill. The service may be slow but as one of two options on Elephantine Island once the food arrives you will not be disappointed.
Mövenpick Aswan: Although an affront to Elephantine Island’s natural habitat, at night the twinkling panorama still offers undeniably beautiful views.
