Accra is a massive sprawling capital, a complete contrast to the rural Togo we had just left. Huge amounts of traffic entering the city, tower blocks, a national theatre, and especially the never ending stream of signs, billboards and advertising made it a city like no other we had seen in West Africa. Jesus is everywhere and most businesses have religious themed names such as Judgement Day Electronics and Hand of God Cafeteria!
When the continuous traffic slows or stops vendors flood the road selling a bigger variety of wares than we had seen for a long time. This is a city that has a lot going on. Prices here have more than doubled in the last five years making our guide book completely redundant, and leaving many citizens strapped for cash whilst the accelerated progress of others has lead to a 4 x 4 boom. Every western comfort is available here and an air-conditioned lifestyle (car, office, shopping mall, home) available to some means that two very different worlds live side by side. An example of this is the ‘no hawking’ sign which keeps the mall and it’s car park free from vendors, yet on the other side of the road the everyday buying and selling of cheap goods goes on as usual.
The sense of parallel lives is especially obvious at night when you can see hundreds of people sleeping rough in litter strewn inner-city streets. Those who are attracted to the city for work can not always afford a safe place to rest their heads and end up sleeping in a door way. This is one of the reasons that the atmosphere at night in Accra does not lend itself to wandering and taking a taxi is advisable. Another is the lack of street lights, which means as soon as the sun sets an uneasy darkness falls on the city. The moment dusk descends a literal rush hour begins with crowds frantically scurrying alongside traffic clogged roads. Everyone wants to make it home before the dark makes the cracked and broken streets perilous to tread.
Of all the places we have been in Africa although the most developed Accra has also felt the most unsafe. As the disparity between the rich and poor widens, crime rates are rising and it seems little is in place to insure that Ghana’s progress is benefiting all.
After staying in the cheapest room in town and eating as usual from street vendors we got a chance to experience the other side of life in Accra. We were invited to stay with some friends in a luxurious apartment complex, air con, pool and all. The generator meant that the power cuts which routinely disrupt most people’s lives kept our M&M’s cool (luxury item) and Come Dine With Me on the flat screen! Like housewives from the 50’s we greeted the washing machine with utter jubilation, singing and dancing as our hand washing days were over (well for a while)!
We had a great time seeing this sweat free side of life but it was nice to get back on the road again, squash into a tro-tro with some plantain chips and argue about the price. Accra is a large and dynamic capital city which has a lot to offer and also illustrates the changes that are going on throughout Ghana. From budget travel to luxury living we enjoyed exploring two very different sides of this huge metropolis.
