A single tarmacked road cuts through the desert of northern Sudan with dusty off-shoots that lead to small pockets of habitation. A petrol station marks the turning for one such track that leads to the small somnolent town of Abri.

Sun parched, single storey mud brick and breeze block dwellings line sandy streets in uniformity; like a series of flat packed houses made from the desert itself. The inhabitants retreat inside during the heat of the day as scorching temperatures restrict activity, making the town feel semi-deserted. The morning chill and the cool of dusk reignite the vigour of the towns-people to go about daily tasks. In Abri all is centred around one main street which consists of small market stalls and restaurants serving up dishes of the day from big metal pots.

In an otherwise harsh and seemingly life-less landscape it is only the Nile that makes life possible. Wherever the water flows verdant greenery outlines its course, only stretching so far from the banks before the arid greed of the desert stops life short. This stark contrast is an incredible sight to behold and truly makes you appreciate the fundamental value of water.

This tiny town may not at first glance seem like a likely stopover however if you want to understand some of the richness of Sudanese history it is a great place to start. The Nile has supported civilisation here for millennia, its rich banks once host to great pharaohs. Now the ruins of their temples are scattered through modern-day farm land making a visit here an exploration of both past and present.

Highlights

Getting Here

Mini bus from Wadi Halfa (leaves when full) – 150SDP 2.5 hr drive. Then a short but necessary taxi from the main road to the town.

Sleeping

Megzoub’s Guesthouse: The luxuries of hot water and WiFi make this a comfortable place to stay although there are not enough blankets for the night-time chill. The prices are not cheap and we found Megzoub’s monopoly on the town’s tourism overbearing.

Eating

Petrol Station: Like all good service stations, this one on the turning to Abri serves a selection of tasty and cheap snacks. We had tamiya (falafel) wraps with aubergine puree and hot chilli sauce.

Village restaurants: Small local outlets with plastic chairs and tables serving a selection of meat and bean stews from large pots.

Water: Not available except in the main village so make sure to stock up before heading out on any day trips.